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Continuer vos achatsTrying to buy untreated gemstones can feel overwhelming. If you’re in London or anywhere in the UK, the mix of advice, inconsistent descriptions, and polished images that don’t match reality can make it hard to know who to trust.
That’s why it helps to slow things down. Once you know what “untreated” really means and what questions to ask, the process of trying to buy untreated gemstones becomes clearer and less stressful.
Not all gemstones are sold the way they came out of the ground. Many undergo treatments to improve their appearance or durability. Common ones include:
Heat treatment – used to improve or intensify colour (very common for sapphires and rubies).
Fracture filling – glass or resin fills cracks to make a gem look clearer (often seen in emeralds).
Dyeing or coating – adds or changes colour, sometimes used in lower-quality stones.
These are industry-accepted practices, but they change the gem’s natural state.
An untreated gemstone is one that hasn’t been altered by these methods. Its inclusions, subtle colour shifts, and natural patterns remain intact. While “untreated” doesn’t mean flawless, many collectors and jewellers value these gems because they are rarer and authentic representations of how the stone formed.
Always ask for independent verification. A reputable seller will provide a certificate from a recognised gemmological lab (e.g. GIA, SSEF, Gübelin) confirming whether or not a stone has been treated.
Online listings can feel endless. One way to simplify the process is to buy from someone who sources directly or has strong, transparent ties to mining regions. For example, Mogok (Myanmar) is historically known for rubies and spinels, though political and ethical considerations mean it is important to confirm how the stone was obtained.
Smaller supply chains, where gems are mined, cut, and sold locally, can sometimes be easier to verify. Still, paperwork and lab reports are essential, especially for high-value stones. Personal connections or stories should always be backed up by documentation.
If you’re in London, face-to-face meetings are a good step. Being able to view the gem in natural light and ask direct questions builds trust.
You don’t need to be a gemmologist to ask the right questions. Here are three essentials:
Look for a clear “yes” or “no.” Vague or complicated answers are a red flag.
Provenance matters, but sellers should be transparent. Even if they cannot guarantee mine-level traceability, they should explain the supply chain as clearly as possible.
Natural inclusions such as fine lines or tiny bubbles are common in untreated gems. A trustworthy seller will let you inspect the stone under daylight and a loupe.
Gemstone photos can be helpful, but they are not always reliable. Online images are often taken under strong lighting or digitally enhanced, making stones appear more vibrant or flawless than they are in person. What looks smooth and richly coloured in a photo may appear quite different when viewed in natural daylight.
Natural gemstones, especially untreated ones, usually show subtle variations. A lighter streak on one side, a soft cloud within, or tiny inclusions are part of how the gem formed over millions of years. If a photo looks too perfect, it is worth asking whether the image has been edited or if the stone has been treated.
Labels and certificates can provide useful information, but they should never replace direct evaluation. A certificate confirms important details such as whether a gemstone has been treated, but it will not reveal how the stone was cut, who handled it, or the exact conditions under which it was sourced. That is why open discussion with the seller and your own careful inspection are essential.
The best way to understand a gem’s true character is to view it in natural, soft light rather than under bright, high-powered lamps. This is particularly important when assessing matched gemstone pairs, which need to harmonise in colour, clarity, and cut for settings like earrings or cufflinks. Seeing them side by side under realistic lighting gives you the most accurate impression.
At the end of the day, untreated gemstones are about authenticity. Their uniqueness comes from natural variations, not engineered perfection. Look for signs of their journey underground, such as subtle colour zones, inclusions, or organic patterns.
When paired with lab verification, honest sourcing, and a seller willing to answer questions, these traits make untreated gems worth seeking out.
Ready to see what natural rarity looks like up close? Take a look at this hand-selected parcel where you can confidently buy untreated gemstones direct from our collection. At Natural Spinel Gemstone, we keep it honest and personal, just the way a stone’s story should be shared.